Brunch At Dressler

May 11th, 2007

(Originally posted on The Brooklyn Record):

Dressler is the high-end branch of the Dumont Empire. Situated on the same quiet stretch of Broadway as Peter Luger, it has already managed to make itself a destination. A recent attempt at same-day dinner reservations for a party of three yielded one opening at 9:30. Given its popularity for dinner, I was happily surprised when there was no wait for brunch.
The key to a good brunch is having a balance between breakfast and lunch fare. Some places throw a mediocre pasta dish on a menu full of eggs and pancakes—sorry, that’s not brunch. Dressler does the meal right, offering a harmonious blend of omelets, french toast, burgers, and fried chicken. It was, in fact, the fried chicken that brought us there. A friend had recommended it, swearing it was the best he’d ever tasted.

And the chicken is indeed pretty great. The breading is crispy and thick, substantial without being heavy. The mild seasoning flavors the skin with a light herbiness. It comes with a giant, flaky biscuit, which barely fit in my hand.
These enormous biscuits also serve as the platform for the Benedict, Dressler’s turn at the requisite brunch dish. Hickory-smoked ham replaces Canadian bacon, but don’t worry, the Hollandaise is still there. This is the must-have dish for my next visit.
Finally, there’s the Fresh Baked Goods, a side whose particular composition changes from week to week. When we were there, the main attraction was a pair of glazed doughnut holes that made me resent every Dunkin’ I’ve ever put in my mouth.
149 Broadway, Williamsburg. (718) 384-6343.
-clay williams
photo by ultraclay!

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