Der Schwarz Kolner Opens!

August 25th, 2009
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Fort Greene’s brand new Beer Hall, Der Schwarz Kolner opened a couple weeks ago after much anticipation. Tammi and I ended up getting there 15 minutes after they opened. The menu was still in flux and there was much frantic bouncing around by the staff, but the energy in the room was great.
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As the name implies, they specialize in the cuisine of Koln (or Cologne to you francophiles). What that means in practical matters is that you get plenty of wonderful Kolsch beer. As I’ve mentioned before, K├Âlsch is “light and sweet, but with a bite of hops that provides a zen-like balance.” And thus a perfect summer beer.
We hung out there for a couple hours, sampling the compact (three item) menu. The bratwurst was juicy and well spiced. The pretzels were tasty, but lacked salt for some reason. The last dish, which had an odd (read: German) name was nothing more complicated than a slab of gouda cheese and a roll. Tammi’s rather fond of gouda, so she gobbled that up and loved it.
Before we headed out, we saw an off the menu special coming out of the the kitchen: some tantalizing red kielbasa sausages showed up at the table next to us.
It’s a testament to both the draw of a beer hall and the neighborhood that within an hour of our arrival, the place was already crowded. I know I’ll be back.
(Many thanks to Eater for linking to my opening day photos)

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