Aspen: Brexi

February 4th, 2010
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In the intervening year since my last trip to Aspen, Brexi opened up a block away from my hotel. It’s a shiny new brasserie with a nicely put together menu of classics including a seafood plate a la “The Balthazar
I stuck to more reasonable fare and had a burger there on my first visit there. The guys down the bar raved about what they considered the best burger in town. I should probably have learned from the local advice I got last year that ‘best’ is wildly subjective.
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Wait. That’s not entirely fair. The burger, topped with Emmentaler cheese, caramelized shallots, applewood smoked bacon and Russian dressing would have been very good had it been served at the medium rare temperature I asked for. Instead, it was perfectly raw in the middle. Like steak tartare.
The other issue was just with the structural integrity of the burger. The dressing and the onions, not to mention the bloody burger were a bit too juicy for the buns to hold together. Instead it all came to pieces by the time I got half way through it. Not always a deal breaker on a great burger, but a bit frustrating when also trying to eat around the uncooked center.
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Let’s be clear. I’m not slamming the place. actually really liked it and the service I had there was excellent. The people were friendly and the menu’s other items, like the Duck Two Ways special was very good. This came with a confitted duck leg and a seared breast. In this case, the breast being very rare in the middle was totally acceptable.
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I’m writing this with one more day left in town. As I consider where to go for what may be my last meal in Aspen, Brexi definitely makes the short list.

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