Birthday Dinner at M Wells

June 29th, 2011
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The day after my birthday, Eric managed to get me to go to Queens for dinner at M Wells. If you haven’t heard about it, well, good, maybe I’ll be able to get another meal there before they entirely blow up. That’s unlikely, as Sam Sifton already raved about it months ago. I’m weeks late with this post and, honestly, I don’t have time to do this meal justice with words. See photos and a quick rundown of our incredible meal after the jump.


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A round of cava began a meal that included a lobster roll, veal brains, a poached egg-topped steak tartare and Peking duck served three ways. It was ridiculous and amazing.
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Veal brains are a revelation. A savory custard that just melts in your mouth.
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After having this steak tartare topped with a warm poached egg, I sort of feel like it should be required for any tartare I ever have again.
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It says something about our meal that the lobster roll was the least intense of the starters we ate. It was very, very good, but probably the least memorable only because it was something I’ve eaten before.
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The first round of Peking Duck – a whole duck, served three ways and split between the two of us – was a fairly traditional presentation. And it’s traditional because it works really well.
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Round two was mixed in with fried rice, very good, but at this point in the meal a bit heavy, so I paced myself and only had a bit.
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Round three was a consomme. An intensely rich broth with sliced greens and slivers of black truffles inside. I said it was ridiculous, right?
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More ridiculous is the burger. The $42 price tag seems outrageous until you find out that it contains a 3 pound beef patty underneath it all.The party across from us ordered it and it was quite the spectacle.
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We ate our meal at the counter, watching the whole kitchen staff run back and forth prepping, cooking and serving out some wonderful looking courses that confirm my need to return sooner rather than later.
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We finished the meal with a slice of maple pie and a mysteriously steaming concoction, a gift from the waitress, that we never quite figured out.
I’ve heard that they also serve brunch daily, which is much easier to get to. I think I may have to go back one of these days to give that a try.

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